If possible start training your cat to have her claws trimmed as a kitten. Gently stroke your cat’’s paws often, getting her used to having her paws held before you attempt trimming. Be sure to reward your cat with a special food treat-one that she receives only during claw trimming or some other grooming procedure-during or immediately after trimming. The best time to trim your cat’’s claws is when she is relaxed or sleepy. Never try to give a pedicure right after a stressful experience or an energetic round of play.

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. Even if you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you”ll complete the task. (Because cats do little damage with their rear claws and do a good job of keeping them trim themselves-by chewing them-many cat owners never clip the rear claws. Others trim their cats” rear claws three or four times a year or have them done by their veterinarian or a professional groomer.)

Many people hold the clippers at right angles to the nail, thus cutting across the nail. This tends to make the nail more subject to splitting or fraying. It is better to hold the clippers in a vertical position–that is, up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail. This position help prevent splitting.

If you accidentally clip into the quick, don”t panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn”t stopped after a minute or so, touch a styptic pencil to the claw end or pat on styptic powder to help staunch the bleeding. How often you need to clip your cat’’s claws depends somewhat on how much of the tip you remove, but usually a clipping every ten to fourteen days will suffice. If” your cat absolutely refuses to allow you to clip tier claws, get help from your veterinarian or a professional groomer

Gently press the cat’’s toe pads to reveal sharp claws in need of a trim.

Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw.

Special claw trimmers (two types are shown) are available from veterinarians or pet supply stores, but sharp nail clippers for humans work just as well. Keep a styptic (astringent) pencil or powder on hand in case you accidentally clip into the quick and bleeding hasn”t stopped within a couple of minutes.

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Yes, it is. To remove a cat’’s claws is far worse than to deprive cat owners of their fingernails. This is because the claws have so many important functions in the life of a cat. A declawed cat is a maimed cat, and anyone considering having the operation done to his pet should think again. People hastily declaw cats hoping to protect their furniture as well as themselves from potential scratches. It’’s natural for a cat to scratch, but with a little human effort, you can direct that energy so that you, your cat, and your furniture can comfortably live together.

Consider the facts. To begin with, it is important that every cat should keep itself well groomed. A smooth, clean coat of fur is essential for a cat’’s well-being. It is vital for temperature control, for cleanliness, for waterproofing, and for controlling the scent signaling the feline body. As a result, cats spend a great deal of time every day dealing with their toilet. In addition to the typical licking movements, they perform repeated scratchings. These scratching actions are a crucial part of the cleaning routine, getting rid of skin irritations, dislodging dead hairs, and combing out tangles in the fur. Without claws, it is impossible for any cat to scratch itself efficiently, and the whole grooming pattern suffers as a result. Even if the human owners help out with brush and comb, there is no way they can replace the sensitivity of the natural scratching response of their pet. Anyone who has ever suffered an itch that can”t be scratched will sympathize with the dilemma of the declawed cat.  

It has been argued that a declawed cat can learn to use its teeth more when grooming. It is true that cats often nibble an irritation rather than scratch it, but unfortunately, some of the most urgent scratching requirements are in the region of the head, mouth, neck, and especially, the ears. Teeth are useless here, and these important parts of the body cannot be kept in perfect condition with only clawless feet to groom them.

A second problem faces the declawed cat when it tries to climb. Climbing is second nature to all small felines, and it is virtually impossible for a cat to switch off its urge to climb, even if it is punished for doing so. And punished it certainly will be if it attempts to climb after having its claws removed, for it will no longer have any grip in its feet. Even the simple act of climbing up onto a chair or a window ledge may prove hazardous. Without the pinpoint contact of the tips of the claws, the animals may find themselves slipping and crashing to the ground. The expression of disbelief and confusion that is observed on the faces of such cats as they pick themselves up is in itself sufficient to turn any cat lover against the idea of claw removal. If the cat accidentally gets out of doors, it is defenseless against enemies (other cats in a cat fight, dogs, mean humans, etc.). In addition, scratching offers psychological comfort through its rhythmic action, and reassurance of self-defense by the contraction of the claws.

In addition to destroying the animal’’s ability to groom, climb, defend itself against rivals, and protect itself from enemies, the operation of declawing also eliminates the cat’’s ability to hunt. This may not be important for a well-fed family pet, but if ever such a cat were to find itself lost or homeless, it would rapidly die of starvation. The vital grab at a mouse with sharp claws extended would become a useless gesture.

In short, a declawed cat is a crippled, mutilated cat, and no excuse can justify the operation. Despite this, many pet cats are carried off to the vet by exasperated owners for this type of convenience surgery. The operation, although nearly always refused by vets in Britain, has become so common in certain countries that it even has an official name. It is called onyxectomy. Using an old Greek name for it somehow makes it seem more respectable. The literal translation of onyxectomy, however, is simply “nail-cutting out” and that is what vets are doing, even though they may not like to be reminded of the fact when they record their day’’s work.

The consequences of declawing are often pathetic. Changes in behavior can occur. A declawed cat frequently resorts to biting when confronted with even minor threats. Biting becomes an overcompensation for the insecurity of having no claws. Bungled surgery can result in the regrowth of deformed claws or in an infection leading to gangrene. Balance is affected by the inability to grasp with their claws. Chronic physical ailments such as cystitis or skin disorders can be manifestations of a declawed cat’’s frustration and stress.

The reason for the popularity of the declawing operation in recent years has been the concern of owners for their furnishings. Valuable chair fabrics, curtains, cushions, and other materials are often found scratched, torn, and tattered as a result of the family cat’’s claw sharpening activities around the house, and the addition of commercially manufactured scratching posts to the indoor furniture rarely seems to solve the problem by itself. It takes other measures by the pet owner in combination with an alternative scratching area. Home furnishings are expensive, but a cat’’s well-being is priceless.

Scratches to humans can be avoided by always handling cats gently and respectfully and keeping a cat’’s claws clipped (described in my care and grooming section of the Dandy Lions home page) is the single best way to prevent scratches to humans, as well as to reduce a cat’’s need for scratching to keep nails sharpened.

Your cat should trust you, and depend upon you for protection. Don”t betray that trust by declawing your cat. Below are safe alternatives to declawing your cat.

Six Simple Alternatives to Declawing Your Cat

1. A tall, sturdy and heavy scratching post sprinkled occasionally with catnip is the favored alternative. Some cats are partial to sisal doormats.
2. When selecting furniture, a closely woven fabric is the best. Cats find this type of fabric difficult to pierce with their claws.
3. When your cat begins to scratch on a piece of furniture, give him a firm warning such as “No, Kitty!” and then give him a quick squirt from a mister or water pistol. This should discourage him. Then call him to his scratching post with a food treat and praise him when he comes and uses the post. This may have to be done over and over until he understands.
4. If accustomed to the procedure, cats will tolerate having the curved part of their claws clipped regularly. Consult your veterinarian for instructions.
5. Until your cat learns that only the scratching posts (it’’s recommended that you have several), are for scratching, cover his favorite furniture scratching areas with either one or a combination of aluminum foil, a loosely woven fabric, double-sided tape, or blown up balloons taped to the furniture.
6. When playing with a kitten or cat NEVER use your hand or arms in play. This teaches him that people are toys and he may scratch simply in play. Each time your cat scratches you, give him a loud “OUCH” and leave the room. One of the most effective punishments for a cat is being ignored.

Scratching is the very essence of a cat being a cat. These simple, inexpensive modifications in your cat’’s behavior and environment can eliminate damaged furniture and scratched humans.

Remember, declawing is radical surgery that involves amputating the first joint of a cat’’s toes. It’’s permanent, expensive, and irreversible, and may have unwanted affect on your cat’’s behavior. Please consider other alternatives such as SOFTPAWS nail caps before committing your cat to surgery.

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What is urine marking?

Urine marking – sometimes called spraying – is when your cat deposits small amounts of urine (usually on vertical surfaces) as a kind of message tag to announce his presence.

Although this issue involves inappropriate urination inside the house, marking isn’t actually a housetraining problem: it’s a deliberate expression of territoriality, which is a completely different thing.

Why do cats mark?

There are a number of reasons why cats mark:

- Territoriality: the cat is letting other cats know that the marked area is “his” territory
- To communicate sexual availability
- Out of stress or anxiety
- A change of location: some cats will begin to mark when their owners move house
- If a new animal or human is introduced to the house
- Because of overcrowding (too many other cats in the house)
- The cat is receiving less attention than normal
- A significant change in lifestyle or routine (for example, the owner gets a full-time job; someone moves out of home; the house is renovated)

Which cats are more likely to mark?

All cats mark – and unfortunately, there’s no way of predicting in advance which cats are going to become sprayers!

However, some cats are more likely to mark than others. From most likely to least likely, these are:

- Unneutered (intact) male cats
- Neutered male cats
- Intact females
- Spayed females

If you have an intact male cat, urine marking is practically to be expected. The urine of a tomcat has that characteristically strong, catty odor, and is very recognizable (and offensive) to humans: neutering your male cat will remove this odor and will also reduce the likelihood of recurrent marking.

Although neutering is strongly recommended in the treatment of feline marking, it’s not necessarily guaranteed to work: approximately 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females keep right on doing it.

How can I get my cat to stop marking?

Although there’s no hard-and-fast, guaranteed ‘cure’ for this undesirable behavior, there are a number of steps that you can take which are likely to either significantly reduce, or stop entirely, your cat’s marking.

Listed below are some of the most effective options:

- Take him for a checkup

There are a huge number of reasons why your cat is choosing to urinate outside the litterbox: he may be marking, or there may be a medical cause for the behavior. Before you can decide on appropriate treatment, you need to rule out health-related causes for the inappropriate elimination.
Take him to the vet for a urinalysis (a complete analysis of his urine) and an overall checkup, to make sure that there are no medical reasons for his behavior.

- Neuter your cat

Neuter your cat immediately. This is the single most effective thing you can do to stop your cat’s spraying, and if you hope to get any control at all over the issue, it’’s pretty much mandatory.

Statistics show that a whopping 87% of all cats stop marking when they’re altered – of this number, 78% cease marking immediately, and 9% stop within three months.

- Behavioral modification

Behavior modification is a tried and true method of controlling your cat’s spraying, although it will require a considerable investment of time and effort on your behalf. You’ll need to supervise your cat closely, paying attention to where and when he marks. The use of behavioral-modification tools like water pistols and shake cans (a tin can with ten pennies or a handful of pebbles inside – when shaken, it makes a loud, scary noise) speeds the process up considerably: when you catch him marking, startle him out of continuing by either spraying him with the water pistol or shaking the can vigorously.

‘Redesignating’ the areas which he tends to mark in can also help: cats don’t like to spray in areas where they eat, sleep, and play. If he marks in particular places around the home (as opposed to indiscriminately), put his food bowls next to the spot, play with him there, and put his bed there.

- Make things easy for your cat

Treatment for marking is based around removing your cat’s motivation to mark in the first place. The most common reasons for marking is territoriality: he could be feeling threatened by the presence of strange cats around the house, or he could be experiencing some conflict with another cat(s) in the house. So, to control his marking behavior, you need to minimize his need to act in a defensive, territorial way.

You can do this by minimizing his exposure to the strange cats, and by resolving any conflict in the home.

For strange cats:

Keep him inside the house, and restrict his access to windows: shut the doors to high-risk rooms, block out his view by installing shields across the sills (these are made of translucent plastic, and can be bought from home-improvement and DIY stores), and if you have a cat-flap, make sure it’s permanently closed (both to prevent your cat from going outside, and to prevent other cats from coming in.)

For problems inside the home:

If the problem’s based around a situation in the home (perhaps he’s feeling overcrowded, perhaps there are conflict issues with one or more other cats), you’ll need to pay attention to how your cats are interacting, and then separate the cats that have issues with each other.

Keep them in separate rooms, with separate litter boxes and food bowls. This doesn’t have to be a permanent thing – once the spraying’’s stopped, give them at least another week of separation (just to be on the safe side) and then you can gradually reintroduce them by way of mutually-enjoyable events like mealtimes and playtimes.)

- Use your common sense

Make it really easy for your cat to urinate appropriately. Make sure that there are enough litter boxes in the house: there should be at least one more than the total number of cats. If you have a multi-storey house, make sure there’s at least one box per storey (more, if you have more cats), and see that they’re all cleaned regularly.

For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better.

For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended.

You can visit the Complete Cat Training website by clicking on the link below:

Complete Cat Training

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Play aggression

Aggression is an inherent aspect of your cat’s predatory nature: behaviors like stalking, chasing, leaping, pouncing, swatting, and biting are all common displays, and are always a major component of any play session.

Usually, this doesn’t constitute a problem: it’s just how cats play, and catering to your cat’s predatory whims can be pretty fun!

But when your cat becomes play aggressive, things can get very uncomfortable, very quickly: faced with a cat that doesn’t understand that such play is painful and even dangerous for her owner, playtimes with your cat can become a trial rather than a pleasure.

This problem is the number-one most common form of aggression that cats display towards humans. It happens when a bored, underexercised, and lonely cat becomes overstimulated during play – and typical play-time mock aggression becomes the real deal.

How do cats normally play?

Cats play in two ways: social (or interactive) play, which is directed towards other cats and humans; and solitary play, which is directed towards objects like balled up paper, mobile cat toys, and paper bags.

Play aggression is often present in either of these two modes of play, but it only becomes an issue when people are involved.

What causes play aggression?

Play aggression happens when your cat has an excess of unused energy – usually from a lack of exercise and owner interaction – and, as a result, becomes too rambunctious and vigorous during a play session.

Because all cat play is based around the predatory feline nature, an overstimulated cat vents this excess through an intensification of her normal predatory play: so, instead of swatting at you with claws sheathed, she extends them; instead of mouthing your hand, she gives it a sharp bite.

Unfortunately, the problem is usually self-replicating. The cat is play-aggressive because she’s not getting enough stimulating, interactive play time; but because she demonstrates this behavior whenever she gets played with, her owner plays with her less … which results in more play aggression … which results in even less play … and so on.

How can I tell when my cat’s about to become aggressive?

You can often tell when the play’s getting a bit out of control by paying attention to your cat’s body language and expression.

Normal, non-aggressive feline play behavior includes the ‘play face’, with a half-open mouth and heavily lidded eyes; the sideways hop (often with arched back); and a lightly switching tail (it’s going from side to side, but slowly and gently.)

When your cat’s getting too revved-up, her body language will alter dramatically. Her ears will go back, her tail will start lashing violently from side to side, and her pupils will enlarge. Her movements will also become significantly more vigorous and energetic: there’ll be increased speed and force to her playing.

What should I do when I sense things are getting out of control?

If you think your cat’s getting overexcited, the best thing you can do is to stand up and walk away – before she actually starts to display aggression! You can resume play as soon as she’s calmed down a bit; the idea is to intervene before she has the chance to vent her energy on you.

If it’s too late for this and she’s already started to bite or scratch at you, don’t reward her with attention – not even negative attention. Simply stand up and walk away. Leave the room, if necessary.

At this point, she will most likely try to initiate play with you again. When she does, don’t respond – play initiation is dominant behavior, and if you accede to her demands, it’ll teach her that bothering you for attention results in her getting her own way.

If she’s particularly persistent, or the aggresion is becoming hard to deal with, you can isolate her in a room by herself until she’s calm (which can take anywhere from five to twenty minutes.)

Main do’s and don’ts for play aggression

- Remember, your cat isn’t really trying to ‘attack’ you – her intentions are purely playful. She just has to learn that aggressive behavior isn’t going to result in a rewarding play session for her. In order for her to learn this, you need to be consistent with your reactions: so don’t reward her with attention sometimes, and ignore her at other times. She’ll get confused, and won’t learn to curb her aggressive behavior.

- Don’t ever use physical punishment to correct play aggression. There are two reasons for this: one, if you actually hurt your cat, this will result in increased aggression on her behalf; and two, even if it doesn’t hurt, it’s still going to scare her, which results in owner-avoidance and a general deterioration of your relationship.

- Since play aggression is almost always due to boredom and an excess of energy, the best thing you can do is to provide lots of opportunities for stimulating interactive play with your cat. Try to make it aerobic exercise: get her running around, chasing things, climbing, pouncing, and so on.

- Make sure the play is on your terms. Don’t allow your cat to initiate play – this is habit-forming, and teaches her that you can be manipulated.

- If you find it difficult to make the time to play with your cat, scheduling in a couple of set ten-minute playtimes each day might help. Paying attention to your cat’s circadian rhythms (watching to see when she’s the most active) is a good idea as well: play with her when she’s wide-awake and raring to go. She’ll get more out of it.

What toys should I use?

Cats are predators. Their play is instinctively based around behaviors that will increase their ability to hunt.

Because of this, cats prefer toys that resemble prey – that is, small, mobile objects that move.

Try things like ping-pong balls, scrumpled-up paper, cardboard boxes, paper bags, dangling ropes affixed to the ceiling or doorways, scratching posts, and skeins of yarn for solitary play; and fake mice, cat dancers (like a mobile which you dangle and jerk around for your cat to play with), wands, and anything that rolls which you can toss for her for interactive play.

If she likes to climb and explore, you can also try creating an obstacle course for her to enjoy: rig up some branches, pillars, shelves, perches, and climbing ramps etc for her to clamber around on. Most cats enjoy being up high anyway, so this should go down a treat. You can also try hiding some small, tasty treats in various places to encourage her to get climbing.

For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better.

For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended.

You can visit the Complete Cat Training website by clicking on the link below:
Complete Cat Training

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When most people think about animal obedience work, cats aren’t usually the first candidates to spring to mind.

We tend to associate cats with words like aloof, independent, and laid back – they seem to focus on doing what they want, pretty much as and when they feel like it.

You might be excused for thinking that this isn’t really ideal training material!

However – there’s an ever-increasing number of people who are deriving a great deal of pleasure from training their cats in basic and advanced obedience work and tricks (from sit, stay, come to jumping through hoops, twirling, and high-fiving) – and what’s more, they’re convinced that their cats enjoy it, too!

The benefits of training your cat

Just because cats typically lead solitary, individual lives doesn’t mean that they necessarily want to do so.

In fact, many cats are incredibl affectionate and loving by nature – they just need you to demonstrate your leadership and initiate the rapport-building process.

Cats are often underestimated when it comes to the training process, simply because the average owner has very little need to attempt any sort of training at all. Unlike with dogs (whose ability to learn is very well documented) there’s no need to train cats in the basics of pet protocol like house training and bathing.

Consequently, relatively few people are aware of their cat’s abilities in this area.

Training your cat is a fantastic way to enrich your cat’s life:

- It builds a strong rapport between you and your cat
- Because training underlines your authority (your cat has to do what you want to get what he wants), it helps to curb dominant behavior
- It keeps your cat’s mind active and stimulated
- It’s great interactive play, and teaches good social skills
- Anxious and highly-strung cats are reassured and soothed by the repetition and routine of training

So how do I train my cat?

There are two popular methods of training a cat: target training and clicker training. A brief rundown of each:

- Target training is where you attract your cat’s attention and then obtain desired behaviors through the use of a designated tool. For example, during the ‘beg’ command, a particular target training tool called a training wand is used to attract the cat’s attention upwards, and to encourage the cat to rise up on his haunches and ‘beg’.

- Clicker training is a form of operant conditioning (which is where the animal is taught to form a conscious association between a specific behavior and a result.) A small mechanical noise-maker (the ‘clicker’) is used by the trainer to create a short, distinct noise. The clicker is clicked at the precise moment that the cat performs a desired behavior – for example, during ‘sit’, the clicker is clicked at the very instant that the cat’s bottom touches the ground. Directly after the click, the cat is fed a small and tasty treat. With repetition, the cat grows to associate the click with the food, and recognizes his own ability to earn treats by performing the desired action on command. The clicker is a particularly valued training tool because it allows the trainer to pinpoint the exact behavior that’s being rewarded: without the clicker, it’s too easy for the cat to form associations between the treat and a completely unrelated behavior (since it’s impossible to feed the cat a treat at the precise moment that he’s performing a trick.)

Practical tips for training your cat

- Remember to be patient. Your cat is an individual, with his own abilities and preferences. He will pick up some tricks quickly, but may struggle with others. Make allowances for his personality, and don’t lose your temper if it doesn’t go exactly according to schedule.

- If you’re free-feeding your cat (leaving food out at all times for him to eat as and when he feels like it), stop doing this. Enforcing a feeding schedule has two main benefits: it increases the reward-value of food treats as training devices, and also introduces a semblance of routine into your cat’s life (which, believe it or not, most cats actually prefer.)

- Train smart. If you’re using food treats (which is highly recommended to achieve the desired results) then schedule training sessions for just before mealtimes: your cat’s natural desire for food at his regular mealtime will sharpen his focus and increase his desire to obey you (so he can get a treat.)
- Take baby steps. When training your cat, it’s best to build up a solid foundation of the basics before attempting to expand his repertoire.

- Cats have pretty short attention spans, and low boredom thresholds. Keep lessons short and interesting – and always try to end on a positive note.

An example of successful cat training in action

Training your cat to ‘sit’ on command

‘Sit’ is a great basic command for your cat to know, because it serves as the foundation for a number of other, more advanced tricks and commands (for example, ‘stay’, ‘beg’, and ‘high five’.)

- Make your training wand extra-effective by smearing the tip in a little tuna oil, and use it to attract your cat’s attention (wave it around, trail it past his face, etc.)

- Once he’s come over to you, place the wand just over his head, so that it’s slightly behind the crown of his head.

- He will tilt his head back to keep his eyes on it. When he does this, he will naturally sit down (since otherwise, his neck can’t bend back far enough to allow him to keep watching the training wand.)

- As he sits down, say the word ‘Sit’, which will be the verbal cue for this command (your cat will grow to associate the command with the act of sitting, and eventually will learn to sit down whenever you ask him to.)

- As soon as his bottom touches the ground, click the clicker. It’s important that you time this precisely.

- Directly after clicking, give him a small food treat. Make sure it’s cut up very small – if it takes him more than two seconds to eat it, he’ll forget why you gave it to him.

- Repeat this process a few more times, and over the next few weeks, keep doing so until he’s comfortable with what’s expected of him. When he’s able to sit down on command, you can phase the clicker out – but still give treats sporadically (interestingly, if you treat every single time that he performs a command, he’s actually less likely to reliably obey that command. Keeping him on his toes seems to increase the likelihood of obedience!)

Further training

For step-by-step advice on how to train your cat in a huge variety of other obedience commands and tricks (from ‘stay’ to ‘play dead’ to ‘fetch’), check out the Complete Cat Training book – it’s full of training how-to’s, as well as a huge amount of detailed information on solving problem behaviors, cat psychology, and how to develop a more rewarding relationship with your cat.

To visit the Complete Cat Training website, click the link below:
Complete Cat Training

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Pet cat health care may be similar to caring for other pets. But such care may also have its own differences. One of them is that pet cats may suffer from a host of different diseases that other pets may not go through. Here is a list of some feline diseases that pet cats may suffer from at some point.

Feline Distemper

This disease usually affects pet cats at a young age. Known medically as feline panleukopenia, this type of viral infection lowers down the immune defenses of young kittens by severely affecting the production of white blood cells. This infection can make young kittens pass, liquid stool with blood due to the severe hemorrhaging that happens in their small intestine.

Fever may also be expected and will lead the young kitten to become depressed and then refuse to take any food and water. It may seem to the pet owner that the cat has a temperamental personality, hence the name feline distemper. The infection actually has no effect on the cat’s personality in any way. Sadly, recovery for such conditions is very rare for a cat.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis

This is another viral infection that is also fatal in cats. Once your pet cat shows signs of this infection, it can take years and years of trouble. This infection is usually common mostly in young adult cats and can be transmitted to other cats. There are two known types of this infection.

There is the “dry” type where the young adult cat is affected by high fever as well as problems with internal organs such as the kidneys, lungs and the intestines. With this type of infection, the cats never seem improve no matter how well the treatment is given.

There is also the “wet” type of the disease has the young adult cat having a fluid discharge within the abdomen. Occasionally the cat’s chest displays a golden and dense liquid that contains flakes within. This infection makes the cat run a high fever and would usually not eat well.

The only protection that cats can have over the disease is vaccination. But vaccines should be given to pet cats prior to any exposure to the virus or else the vaccine would not be very effective to prevent any infection.

Feline immune Deficiency Virus

This disease is similar to the Human Immune Deficiency Virus or HIV in humans. This virus in only found in cats and is being spread mainly through a bite from an infected cat. This disease suppresses the cat’s immune system and leads the cat to be more prone to all sorts of infection. There is an intranasal vaccine available to protect cats from the FIV infection although some veterinarians are not that convinced that it can protect more effectively as compared to other vaccines.

Feline Leukemia Virus

This virus can severely limit an infected cat’s immune system. With the affected immune system, the cat has limited ability to defend against all sorts of other infections. This virus can be spread from contact with infected cats. Many cats can become carriers of the virus for years without displaying any outside symptoms of the infection.

Cats harboring the virus may at times develop clinical signs of the infection if they undergo surgery, get injured or when they get lost outside their usual environment. These diseases may give pet owners an idea of how pet cat health care may be important to ensure that their pets live healthier and longer lives.

What you feed your cat is very important. Cats gain weight quickly and can soon become overweight which can lead to health problems such as diabetes, not unlike that in humans.

The amount your cat eats each day will depend on its age, breed, activity level and whether it is neutered/spayed or not. Neutered cats tend to put on weight quicker than intact cats.

It is best advised that you purchase the best quality food that you can afford. Most supermarket brands are high in carbohydrates as these are cheaper to manufacturer. In fact, cats do not need alot of carbs and they can quickly lead to rapid weight gain.

Adult cats should be fed twice per day, generally morning and evening. If your cat is a healthy weight then you can leave dry food out for the day and many cats like to graze throughout the day. However if your cat becomes overweight then you may need to limit him to a twice daily feeding.

Cats should be fed a mix of dry and wet or canned food. Some cats enjoy raw chicken necks or wings, but you should never feed your cat cooked meat or bones as the bones can break up in the stomach and cause damage. You may also feed your cat raw meat however be sure to adhere to hygienic standards and do not leave meat out if the cat does not consume it within 30 minutes.

Cats should not be given milk as they can not digest it properly. Make sure your cat has a bowl of water available at all times.

A balanced diet for your cat will allow it to leave a happy energetic life. If you have any questions at all about your cats diet you are advised to ask your vet.

A cat can be a pet an also a friend. If you want the feline to be with you for the long term, it pays to know proper cat care.

Before getting one from the pet store or animal shelter, be sure to have a bed, dish bowl and litter box ready. By giving them their own space, they will be able to adapt to the new environment that you have made for them.

Since the cat will explore around the house and might even go out, it is advisable to put a collar around its neck which has your name, contact number and address so in case it wanders off, one of your neighbors will be able to return it.

Another option is to insert a microchip under their skin. Putting this device into the feline is very similar to giving it a vaccination. Aside from using it merely to identify the cat if it gets lost, it also has another purpose which is a flea deterrent because it has a chemical that helps keep these parasites away.

You must only buy high quality cat food for your pet. These should be rich in protein that may come from meat, fish or poultry. These are available either in canned or Kibble and most nutritionists agree that a combination of both is ideal so they do not develop food addictions.

One thing you must never feed a cat is chocolate because it has certain chemicals that could be fatal for them.

Aside from food, you can also give your cat food supplements such as Omega 3 Fatty Acids and Taurine which is an essential amino acid.

Don’t forget to bring your cat at least once a year to the vet. This is to check on your pet’s state of health as well as giving the annual vaccinations. You should know that the older the cat gets, such visits to the vet should be done every 6 months because they also get old.

If there is a problem or suspect that something is wrong, drive down to the vet even if you don’t have an appointment. Remember that when it comes to dealing with felines, this professional is the specialist.

Cats have the ability to clean themselves but they can only do so much on their own. While they are young, they have to get used to the idea of giving them a bath. Once dried, their hairs should be combed so it does not get tangled.

You should trim their nails so they don’t scratch too hard and hurt themselves or even you. Since they love to scratch and this may cause damage to your furniture, make sure to also have a scratch pad nearby positioned by their bed or the furniture.

House cats should always be kept indoors. This will prevent them from coming into contact with other animals that may be carriers of infectious diseases that may be fatal to them. If ever you go out, make sure all the windows and doors are locked.

Long term cat care may let it live for ten years or more. If others are able to do it, so can you. Just remember that it is a responsibility that you got yourself into so make the most of it.

Cat dental care is important to make sure that your pet enjoys a clean bill of health among other things. Cats also need their teeth to be taken cared of because it can lead them to a lot of other problems concerning their general health. For instance, if your pet cat has periodontal problems, it might not eat well and experience poor health due to lack of the proper nutrients in the body. That’s how important dental care is for your pet cat.

Most cats may suffer from a wide range of dental conditions if they are not properly cared for. That is why it is the responsibility of the pet owner to make sure that his or her pet cat follows a regimen of good dental hygiene. It may be work, but it well serve you and your pet cat well in the long run.

One of the problems that cats experience with their teeth is plaque. Just like humans, cats also have tartar buildup in their own teeth called plaque. This is due t the many types of food that cats eat with some of the substances accumulating in their teeth that may further lead to the tartar buildup. If the accumulation of plaque continues on, it may lead to gum problems and eventually the loss of your pet cat’s teeth.

Not all cats have the same experience with plaque. Their seems to be some cats who are prone to tartar buildup while there are others that seem to do well even with little dental care. Some cats may require regular teeth cleaning in order to remove the plaque build up from their teeth. Plaque is a whitish yellow deposit that gradually develops on teeth.

In cats, the plaque usually develops in the exterior face of the upper teeth. If left to accumulate, plaque can cause gum problems in cats. This can be seen in reddened gum lines which can indicate that the plaque is already causing some irritation.

In order to prevent the over build up of plaque in your pet cat’s teeth, an annual teeth cleaning may be suggested. Veterinarians usually put the cats under general anesthesia to have their teeth cleaned. But this service can come at some considerable cost. The next best thing would be to have your pet cat’s teeth cleaned at home.

It might take some getting used to when trying to clean your pet cat’s teeth at home. Cats do not usually like to have their teeth cleaned. In order to do this, you might need to have your pet cat placed in a bath towel straitjacket as well as a helper.

A child size tooth brush would work well when cleaning your pet cat’s teeth. You can also make use of some edible toothpaste available in pet stores to make the task easier for you. Sometimes cats can get used to tooth brushing if done on a weekly basis.

Sometimes when you try to observe some pet cat dental care, you might find that your pet cat has a smelly breath. This can be caused by two things. One may occur when a young cat is teething. At around six months of age, cats start to lose their baby teeth with the permanent ones replacing them.

The odor on the cat’s breath may be due to the teeth changing process. The odor on your cat’s breath will eventually subside once the teeth come in.

Some animals have been abandoned by their owners. They end up in animal shelters hoping that someone will come along and given them a good home. If you are thinking of owning a feline, you better learn a thing or two about foster cat care.

When you bring home the cat from the foster home, this should first be left inside the cat carrier until they are already ready to be isolated in a small room. This will give them time to adjust to their new environment and one of the most ideal places in the house is the bathroom that must have a cat bed, litter pan, water and food.

If there are children in the house, they must be slowly introduced to the feline one at a time with adult supervision. They must be taught to treat it gently and speak to it softly but if you have infants or toddlers, you should wait till they grow older.

In case there is already a cat in the house and the one you adopted will add to the number of pets, you must plan a 2 week introductory period between them. Be aware that there will be a lot of hissing and you should be present at all times so that should a fight break out, you will be able to wrap a blanket around them and have these two separated. Naturally, both should have a separate litter box and bowl.

You must always use good quality cat food and not the cheap kind if you want to extend the life of your cat. Feeding is once daily and you have the option of giving them supplements like Omega 3 Fatty acids.

By law, cats are required to wear an identification tag so if you don’t have one yet, you better get one. Written on the tag is the cat’s name, your name, address and contact number so someone will be able to get in touch with you in the event it gets out of the house. Another option is for to install a microchip that is embedded under their skin.

Some cats have not been toilet trained. If this is one of your problems, you should teach them so they know that this is the place to go when nature is calling. The best step is to carry them to the box when you see that they are about to do it. If you see them doing, reinforce it by giving them food as a reward thus making this habit forming.

Aside from providing the adopted cat with food and shelter, you should also give them a scratch pad to curb the incidents of unwanted destruction of furniture. Ideally, this should measure 3 feet in height and installed near where they sleep or next to the furniture.

If ever they scratch on the furniture, do not scold them. Just carry them and direct their attention to the post.

Since their claws get sharp, you must also trim it every two weeks. If you have never done it before, ask your vet to teach you so this is done right causing no harm to the cat.

Foster cat care can be a challenge given that there are a lot of things to teach it. By giving your new friend constant love and attention, you will be able to enjoy each other’s company.