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Cats and kittens in the same household can be the best of friends, or the worst of enemies, and occasionally, both at various times of the day! One of the main problems is that cats are very territorial and if one cat thinks that a particular part of the room is his alone, he will soon show his displeasure if the kitten should dare to walk anywhere near it. On the other hand, a kitten will sometimes do just that in order to get the older cat’s attention. In some ways, kittens are not unlike small children!

To ensure that your cat and new kitty get off to the best possible start socially, you need to go against what your heart intuitively wants to do. Really, this is in kitty’s best interests even though it may make you feel heartless at the time! Bring the new kitty into the room and leave it in its travel carrier for a while. Allow your cat to wander around the carrier and get accustomed to the new kitten’s smell – stand nearby and monitor the situation so that the cat doesn’t try attacking the kitten through the bars!

Talk gently to your cat about the newcomer. Tell him that it’s a playmate. Reassure him that the kitty isn’t going to take his place in the household’s pecking order. When the cat finally stops pacing around, and perhaps even stops any verbal complaints he has, bring the kitten out of the carrier. Keep a hold of the kitten but fuss the cat. If possible try and transfer the scent of one to the other – once they’ve lived together in the same environment, they’ll have a similar smell and “belong”, although this is no guarantee that they’ll ever be the best of pals!

Never leave the kitten alone with the older cat, especially at night when all humans are asleep, until the kitten is big enough and secure enough to defend itself. It will probably be used to pushing siblings out of the way to get milk from its mother but the sheer weight and size of your other cat is a threat to the well-being of the kitten.

Acceptance will come slowly and friendship ever slower. They may even have a love-hate thing going where you think they can’t stand each other, but remove one of them for any length of time, and the other will start pining for him. By introducing them to each other slowly and not forcing them together, you allow each of them to weigh-up and observe the other, and this is the best way of ensuring that every won’t be a survival battle for either of them!

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Yes, it is. To remove a cat’’s claws is far worse than to deprive cat owners of their fingernails. This is because the claws have so many important functions in the life of a cat. A declawed cat is a maimed cat, and anyone considering having the operation done to his pet should think again. People hastily declaw cats hoping to protect their furniture as well as themselves from potential scratches. It’’s natural for a cat to scratch, but with a little human effort, you can direct that energy so that you, your cat, and your furniture can comfortably live together.

Consider the facts. To begin with, it is important that every cat should keep itself well groomed. A smooth, clean coat of fur is essential for a cat’’s well-being. It is vital for temperature control, for cleanliness, for waterproofing, and for controlling the scent signaling the feline body. As a result, cats spend a great deal of time every day dealing with their toilet. In addition to the typical licking movements, they perform repeated scratchings. These scratching actions are a crucial part of the cleaning routine, getting rid of skin irritations, dislodging dead hairs, and combing out tangles in the fur. Without claws, it is impossible for any cat to scratch itself efficiently, and the whole grooming pattern suffers as a result. Even if the human owners help out with brush and comb, there is no way they can replace the sensitivity of the natural scratching response of their pet. Anyone who has ever suffered an itch that can”t be scratched will sympathize with the dilemma of the declawed cat.  

It has been argued that a declawed cat can learn to use its teeth more when grooming. It is true that cats often nibble an irritation rather than scratch it, but unfortunately, some of the most urgent scratching requirements are in the region of the head, mouth, neck, and especially, the ears. Teeth are useless here, and these important parts of the body cannot be kept in perfect condition with only clawless feet to groom them.

A second problem faces the declawed cat when it tries to climb. Climbing is second nature to all small felines, and it is virtually impossible for a cat to switch off its urge to climb, even if it is punished for doing so. And punished it certainly will be if it attempts to climb after having its claws removed, for it will no longer have any grip in its feet. Even the simple act of climbing up onto a chair or a window ledge may prove hazardous. Without the pinpoint contact of the tips of the claws, the animals may find themselves slipping and crashing to the ground. The expression of disbelief and confusion that is observed on the faces of such cats as they pick themselves up is in itself sufficient to turn any cat lover against the idea of claw removal. If the cat accidentally gets out of doors, it is defenseless against enemies (other cats in a cat fight, dogs, mean humans, etc.). In addition, scratching offers psychological comfort through its rhythmic action, and reassurance of self-defense by the contraction of the claws.

In addition to destroying the animal’’s ability to groom, climb, defend itself against rivals, and protect itself from enemies, the operation of declawing also eliminates the cat’’s ability to hunt. This may not be important for a well-fed family pet, but if ever such a cat were to find itself lost or homeless, it would rapidly die of starvation. The vital grab at a mouse with sharp claws extended would become a useless gesture.

In short, a declawed cat is a crippled, mutilated cat, and no excuse can justify the operation. Despite this, many pet cats are carried off to the vet by exasperated owners for this type of convenience surgery. The operation, although nearly always refused by vets in Britain, has become so common in certain countries that it even has an official name. It is called onyxectomy. Using an old Greek name for it somehow makes it seem more respectable. The literal translation of onyxectomy, however, is simply “nail-cutting out” and that is what vets are doing, even though they may not like to be reminded of the fact when they record their day’’s work.

The consequences of declawing are often pathetic. Changes in behavior can occur. A declawed cat frequently resorts to biting when confronted with even minor threats. Biting becomes an overcompensation for the insecurity of having no claws. Bungled surgery can result in the regrowth of deformed claws or in an infection leading to gangrene. Balance is affected by the inability to grasp with their claws. Chronic physical ailments such as cystitis or skin disorders can be manifestations of a declawed cat’’s frustration and stress.

The reason for the popularity of the declawing operation in recent years has been the concern of owners for their furnishings. Valuable chair fabrics, curtains, cushions, and other materials are often found scratched, torn, and tattered as a result of the family cat’’s claw sharpening activities around the house, and the addition of commercially manufactured scratching posts to the indoor furniture rarely seems to solve the problem by itself. It takes other measures by the pet owner in combination with an alternative scratching area. Home furnishings are expensive, but a cat’’s well-being is priceless.

Scratches to humans can be avoided by always handling cats gently and respectfully and keeping a cat’’s claws clipped (described in my care and grooming section of the Dandy Lions home page) is the single best way to prevent scratches to humans, as well as to reduce a cat’’s need for scratching to keep nails sharpened.

Your cat should trust you, and depend upon you for protection. Don”t betray that trust by declawing your cat. Below are safe alternatives to declawing your cat.

Six Simple Alternatives to Declawing Your Cat

  1. A tall, sturdy and heavy scratching post sprinkled occasionally with catnip is the favored alternative. Some cats are partial to sisal doormats.
  2. When selecting furniture, a closely woven fabric is the best. Cats find this type of fabric difficult to pierce with their claws.
  3. When your cat begins to scratch on a piece of furniture, give him a firm warning such as “No, Kitty!” and then give him a quick squirt from a mister or water pistol. This should discourage him. Then call him to his scratching post with a food treat and praise him when he comes and uses the post. This may have to be done over and over until he understands.
  4. If accustomed to the procedure, cats will tolerate having the curved part of their claws clipped regularly. Consult your veterinarian for instructions.
  5. Until your cat learns that only the scratching posts (it’’s recommended that you have several), are for scratching, cover his favorite furniture scratching areas with either one or a combination of aluminum foil, a loosely woven fabric, double-sided tape, or blown up balloons taped to the furniture.
  6. When playing with a kitten or cat NEVER use your hand or arms in play. This teaches him that people are toys and he may scratch simply in play. Each time your cat scratches you, give him a loud “OUCH” and leave the room. One of the most effective punishments for a cat is being ignored.

Scratching is the very essence of a cat being a cat. These simple, inexpensive modifications in your cat’’s behavior and environment can eliminate damaged furniture and scratched humans.

Remember, declawing is radical surgery that involves amputating the first joint of a cat’’s toes. It’’s permanent, expensive, and irreversible, and may have unwanted affect on your cat’’s behavior. Please consider other alternatives such as SOFTPAWS nail caps before committing your cat to surgery.


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Urine marking in Cats

marking

What is urine marking?

Urine marking – sometimes called spraying – is when your cat deposits small amounts of urine (usually on vertical surfaces) as a kind of message tag to announce his presence.

Although this issue involves inappropriate urination inside the house, marking isn’t actually a housetraining problem: it’s a deliberate expression of territoriality, which is a completely different thing.

Why do cats mark?

There are a number of reasons why cats mark:

- Territoriality: the cat is letting other cats know that the marked area is “his” territory
- To communicate sexual availability
- Out of stress or anxiety
- A change of location: some cats will begin to mark when their owners move house
- If a new animal or human is introduced to the house
- Because of overcrowding (too many other cats in the house)
- The cat is receiving less attention than normal
- A significant change in lifestyle or routine (for example, the owner gets a full-time job; someone moves out of home; the house is renovated)

Which cats are more likely to mark?

All cats mark – and unfortunately, there’s no way of predicting in advance which cats are going to become sprayers!

However, some cats are more likely to mark than others. From most likely to least likely, these are:

- Unneutered (intact) male cats
- Neutered male cats
- Intact females
- Spayed females

If you have an intact male cat, urine marking is practically to be expected. The urine of a tomcat has that characteristically strong, catty odor, and is very recognizable (and offensive) to humans: neutering your male cat will remove this odor and will also reduce the likelihood of recurrent marking.

Although neutering is strongly recommended in the treatment of feline marking, it’s not necessarily guaranteed to work: approximately 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females keep right on doing it.

How can I get my cat to stop marking?

Although there’s no hard-and-fast, guaranteed ‘cure’ for this undesirable behavior, there are a number of steps that you can take which are likely to either significantly reduce, or stop entirely, your cat’s marking.

Listed below are some of the most effective options:

- Take him for a checkup

There are a huge number of reasons why your cat is choosing to urinate outside the litterbox: he may be marking, or there may be a medical cause for the behavior. Before you can decide on appropriate treatment, you need to rule out health-related causes for the inappropriate elimination.
Take him to the vet for a urinalysis (a complete analysis of his urine) and an overall checkup, to make sure that there are no medical reasons for his behavior.

- Neuter your cat

Neuter your cat immediately. This is the single most effective thing you can do to stop your cat’s spraying, and if you hope to get any control at all over the issue, it’’s pretty much mandatory.

Statistics show that a whopping 87% of all cats stop marking when they’re altered – of this number, 78% cease marking immediately, and 9% stop within three months.

- Behavioral modification

Behavior modification is a tried and true method of controlling your cat’s spraying, although it will require a considerable investment of time and effort on your behalf. You’ll need to supervise your cat closely, paying attention to where and when he marks. The use of behavioral-modification tools like water pistols and shake cans (a tin can with ten pennies or a handful of pebbles inside – when shaken, it makes a loud, scary noise) speeds the process up considerably: when you catch him marking, startle him out of continuing by either spraying him with the water pistol or shaking the can vigorously.

‘Redesignating’ the areas which he tends to mark in can also help: cats don’t like to spray in areas where they eat, sleep, and play. If he marks in particular places around the home (as opposed to indiscriminately), put his food bowls next to the spot, play with him there, and put his bed there.

- Make things easy for your cat

Treatment for marking is based around removing your cat’s motivation to mark in the first place. The most common reasons for marking is territoriality: he could be feeling threatened by the presence of strange cats around the house, or he could be experiencing some conflict with another cat(s) in the house. So, to control his marking behavior, you need to minimize his need to act in a defensive, territorial way.

You can do this by minimizing his exposure to the strange cats, and by resolving any conflict in the home.

For strange cats:

Keep him inside the house, and restrict his access to windows: shut the doors to high-risk rooms, block out his view by installing shields across the sills (these are made of translucent plastic, and can be bought from home-improvement and DIY stores), and if you have a cat-flap, make sure it’s permanently closed (both to prevent your cat from going outside, and to prevent other cats from coming in.)

For problems inside the home:

If the problem’s based around a situation in the home (perhaps he’s feeling overcrowded, perhaps there are conflict issues with one or more other cats), you’ll need to pay attention to how your cats are interacting, and then separate the cats that have issues with each other.

Keep them in separate rooms, with separate litter boxes and food bowls. This doesn’t have to be a permanent thing – once the spraying’’s stopped, give them at least another week of separation (just to be on the safe side) and then you can gradually reintroduce them by way of mutually-enjoyable events like mealtimes and playtimes.)

- Use your common sense

Make it really easy for your cat to urinate appropriately. Make sure that there are enough litter boxes in the house: there should be at least one more than the total number of cats. If you have a multi-storey house, make sure there’s at least one box per storey (more, if you have more cats), and see that they’re all cleaned regularly.

For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better.

For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended.

You can visit the Complete Cat Training website by clicking on the link below:

Complete Cat Training

 


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Play aggression

Aggression is an inherent aspect of your cat’s predatory nature: behaviors like stalking, chasing, leaping, pouncing, swatting, and biting are all common displays, and are always a major component of any play session.

Usually, this doesn’t constitute a problem: it’s just how cats play, and catering to your cat’s predatory whims can be pretty fun!

But when your cat becomes play aggressive, things can get very uncomfortable, very quickly: faced with a cat that doesn’t understand that such play is painful and even dangerous for her owner, playtimes with your cat can become a trial rather than a pleasure.

This problem is the number-one most common form of aggression that cats display towards humans. It happens when a bored, underexercised, and lonely cat becomes overstimulated during play – and typical play-time mock aggression becomes the real deal.

How do cats normally play?

Cats play in two ways: social (or interactive) play, which is directed towards other cats and humans; and solitary play, which is directed towards objects like balled up paper, mobile cat toys, and paper bags.

Play aggression is often present in either of these two modes of play, but it only becomes an issue when people are involved.

What causes play aggression?

Play aggression happens when your cat has an excess of unused energy – usually from a lack of exercise and owner interaction – and, as a result, becomes too rambunctious and vigorous during a play session.

Because all cat play is based around the predatory feline nature, an overstimulated cat vents this excess through an intensification of her normal predatory play: so, instead of swatting at you with claws sheathed, she extends them; instead of mouthing your hand, she gives it a sharp bite.

Unfortunately, the problem is usually self-replicating. The cat is play-aggressive because she’s not getting enough stimulating, interactive play time; but because she demonstrates this behavior whenever she gets played with, her owner plays with her less … which results in more play aggression … which results in even less play … and so on.

How can I tell when my cat’s about to become aggressive?

You can often tell when the play’s getting a bit out of control by paying attention to your cat’s body language and expression.

Normal, non-aggressive feline play behavior includes the ‘play face’, with a half-open mouth and heavily lidded eyes; the sideways hop (often with arched back); and a lightly switching tail (it’s going from side to side, but slowly and gently.)

When your cat’s getting too revved-up, her body language will alter dramatically. Her ears will go back, her tail will start lashing violently from side to side, and her pupils will enlarge. Her movements will also become significantly more vigorous and energetic: there’ll be increased speed and force to her playing.

What should I do when I sense things are getting out of control?

If you think your cat’s getting overexcited, the best thing you can do is to stand up and walk away – before she actually starts to display aggression! You can resume play as soon as she’s calmed down a bit; the idea is to intervene before she has the chance to vent her energy on you.

If it’s too late for this and she’s already started to bite or scratch at you, don’t reward her with attention – not even negative attention. Simply stand up and walk away. Leave the room, if necessary.

At this point, she will most likely try to initiate play with you again. When she does, don’t respond – play initiation is dominant behavior, and if you accede to her demands, it’ll teach her that bothering you for attention results in her getting her own way.

If she’s particularly persistent, or the aggresion is becoming hard to deal with, you can isolate her in a room by herself until she’s calm (which can take anywhere from five to twenty minutes.)

Main do’s and don’ts for play aggression

- Remember, your cat isn’t really trying to ‘attack’ you – her intentions are purely playful. She just has to learn that aggressive behavior isn’t going to result in a rewarding play session for her. In order for her to learn this, you need to be consistent with your reactions: so don’t reward her with attention sometimes, and ignore her at other times. She’ll get confused, and won’t learn to curb her aggressive behavior.

- Don’t ever use physical punishment to correct play aggression. There are two reasons for this: one, if you actually hurt your cat, this will result in increased aggression on her behalf; and two, even if it doesn’t hurt, it’s still going to scare her, which results in owner-avoidance and a general deterioration of your relationship.

- Since play aggression is almost always due to boredom and an excess of energy, the best thing you can do is to provide lots of opportunities for stimulating interactive play with your cat. Try to make it aerobic exercise: get her running around, chasing things, climbing, pouncing, and so on.

- Make sure the play is on your terms. Don’t allow your cat to initiate play – this is habit-forming, and teaches her that you can be manipulated.

- If you find it difficult to make the time to play with your cat, scheduling in a couple of set ten-minute playtimes each day might help. Paying attention to your cat’s circadian rhythms (watching to see when she’s the most active) is a good idea as well: play with her when she’s wide-awake and raring to go. She’ll get more out of it.

What toys should I use?

Cats are predators. Their play is instinctively based around behaviors that will increase their ability to hunt.

Because of this, cats prefer toys that resemble prey – that is, small, mobile objects that move.

Try things like ping-pong balls, scrumpled-up paper, cardboard boxes, paper bags, dangling ropes affixed to the ceiling or doorways, scratching posts, and skeins of yarn for solitary play; and fake mice, cat dancers (like a mobile which you dangle and jerk around for your cat to play with), wands, and anything that rolls which you can toss for her for interactive play.

If she likes to climb and explore, you can also try creating an obstacle course for her to enjoy: rig up some branches, pillars, shelves, perches, and climbing ramps etc for her to clamber around on. Most cats enjoy being up high anyway, so this should go down a treat. You can also try hiding some small, tasty treats in various places to encourage her to get climbing.

For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better.

For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended.

You can visit the Complete Cat Training website by clicking on the link below:
Complete Cat Training

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Training Your Cat

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When most people think about animal obedience work, cats aren’t usually the first candidates to spring to mind.

We tend to associate cats with words like aloof, independent, and laid back – they seem to focus on doing what they want, pretty much as and when they feel like it.

You might be excused for thinking that this isn’t really ideal training material!

However – there’s an ever-increasing number of people who are deriving a great deal of pleasure from training their cats in basic and advanced obedience work and tricks (from sit, stay, come to jumping through hoops, twirling, and high-fiving) – and what’s more, they’re convinced that their cats enjoy it, too!

The benefits of training your cat

Just because cats typically lead solitary, individual lives doesn’t mean that they necessarily want to do so.

In fact, many cats are incredibl affectionate and loving by nature – they just need you to demonstrate your leadership and initiate the rapport-building process.

Cats are often underestimated when it comes to the training process, simply because the average owner has very little need to attempt any sort of training at all. Unlike with dogs (whose ability to learn is very well documented) there’s no need to train cats in the basics of pet protocol like house training and bathing.

Consequently, relatively few people are aware of their cat’s abilities in this area.

Training your cat is a fantastic way to enrich your cat’s life:

- It builds a strong rapport between you and your cat
- Because training underlines your authority (your cat has to do what you want to get what he wants), it helps to curb dominant behavior
- It keeps your cat’s mind active and stimulated
- It’s great interactive play, and teaches good social skills
- Anxious and highly-strung cats are reassured and soothed by the repetition and routine of training

So how do I train my cat?

There are two popular methods of training a cat: target training and clicker training. A brief rundown of each:

- Target training is where you attract your cat’s attention and then obtain desired behaviors through the use of a designated tool. For example, during the ‘beg’ command, a particular target training tool called a training wand is used to attract the cat’s attention upwards, and to encourage the cat to rise up on his haunches and ‘beg’.

- Clicker training is a form of operant conditioning (which is where the animal is taught to form a conscious association between a specific behavior and a result.) A small mechanical noise-maker (the ‘clicker’) is used by the trainer to create a short, distinct noise. The clicker is clicked at the precise moment that the cat performs a desired behavior – for example, during ‘sit’, the clicker is clicked at the very instant that the cat’s bottom touches the ground. Directly after the click, the cat is fed a small and tasty treat. With repetition, the cat grows to associate the click with the food, and recognizes his own ability to earn treats by performing the desired action on command. The clicker is a particularly valued training tool because it allows the trainer to pinpoint the exact behavior that’s being rewarded: without the clicker, it’s too easy for the cat to form associations between the treat and a completely unrelated behavior (since it’s impossible to feed the cat a treat at the precise moment that he’s performing a trick.)

Practical tips for training your cat

- Remember to be patient. Your cat is an individual, with his own abilities and preferences. He will pick up some tricks quickly, but may struggle with others. Make allowances for his personality, and don’t lose your temper if it doesn’t go exactly according to schedule.

- If you’re free-feeding your cat (leaving food out at all times for him to eat as and when he feels like it), stop doing this. Enforcing a feeding schedule has two main benefits: it increases the reward-value of food treats as training devices, and also introduces a semblance of routine into your cat’s life (which, believe it or not, most cats actually prefer.)

- Train smart. If you’re using food treats (which is highly recommended to achieve the desired results) then schedule training sessions for just before mealtimes: your cat’s natural desire for food at his regular mealtime will sharpen his focus and increase his desire to obey you (so he can get a treat.)
- Take baby steps. When training your cat, it’s best to build up a solid foundation of the basics before attempting to expand his repertoire.

- Cats have pretty short attention spans, and low boredom thresholds. Keep lessons short and interesting – and always try to end on a positive note.

An example of successful cat training in action

Training your cat to ‘sit’ on command

‘Sit’ is a great basic command for your cat to know, because it serves as the foundation for a number of other, more advanced tricks and commands (for example, ‘stay’, ‘beg’, and ‘high five’.)

- Make your training wand extra-effective by smearing the tip in a little tuna oil, and use it to attract your cat’s attention (wave it around, trail it past his face, etc.)

- Once he’s come over to you, place the wand just over his head, so that it’s slightly behind the crown of his head.

- He will tilt his head back to keep his eyes on it. When he does this, he will naturally sit down (since otherwise, his neck can’t bend back far enough to allow him to keep watching the training wand.)

- As he sits down, say the word ‘Sit’, which will be the verbal cue for this command (your cat will grow to associate the command with the act of sitting, and eventually will learn to sit down whenever you ask him to.)

- As soon as his bottom touches the ground, click the clicker. It’s important that you time this precisely.

- Directly after clicking, give him a small food treat. Make sure it’s cut up very small – if it takes him more than two seconds to eat it, he’ll forget why you gave it to him.

- Repeat this process a few more times, and over the next few weeks, keep doing so until he’s comfortable with what’s expected of him. When he’s able to sit down on command, you can phase the clicker out – but still give treats sporadically (interestingly, if you treat every single time that he performs a command, he’s actually less likely to reliably obey that command. Keeping him on his toes seems to increase the likelihood of obedience!)

Further training

For step-by-step advice on how to train your cat in a huge variety of other obedience commands and tricks (from ‘stay’ to ‘play dead’ to ‘fetch’), check out the Complete Cat Training book – it’s full of training how-to’s, as well as a huge amount of detailed information on solving problem behaviors, cat psychology, and how to develop a more rewarding relationship with your cat.

To visit the Complete Cat Training website, click the link below:
Complete Cat Training


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Dry Cat Food

dry-cat-food

Dry cat food is the most common type of food given to cats. Given its low price and ease of storage, cat owners simply love purchasing dry cat food for their feline.

Dry cat food does not go off and smell like meat does, therefore can be left for the cat to graze on over a period of days. This is another benefit that cat owners enjoy when purchasing dry cat food.

The process of making dry cat food is that of cooking under very high pressure and heat. This is a process know an extrusion cooking. Other ingredients are then added.

Some cat experts believe that dry cat food is not ideal for cats based on the pretence that cats are descendents of wild cats, therefore are naturally inclined to eat a diet of raw meat only. They argue that the unnatural ingredients in dry cat food can harm the cat.

The truth in that statement is still hotly debated and there really is no real answer to it. The fact is that dry cat food remains very popular and most cats live an extremely long life on a diet of a combination of dry and wet commercial cat food.

An added benefit of dry cat food is the way it removes build up on the teeth of cats. The brittle food crunches against the cat”’’s teeth, therefore removing built up grime.

Personally I feed my cat a variety of dry and wet foods. I also feed raw meat several times per week. This gives him an all round diet containing many nutrients.

As long as your cat is not exclusively feeding on dry cat food then you can be assured that it is not doing him any harm.

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